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Woodworking is one of the most enjoyable and rewarding endeavors that anyone can participate in. Homeowners take pride in the projects that they accomplish to add value to their homes. But, there is one area that they often have trouble with. Measuring and cutting to length.
Do you have trouble cutting window and door casing or any other kind of moulding accurately so the the joints fit together perfectly without gaps? You love your miter saw but you just can't seem to cut accurately with it? Would you like to learn some tips on how to make joints that would even impress an experienced finishing carpenter? Here's how you can do it yourself successfully:
Measure - you can relax and forget about measuring accurately. Measure in the normal way and add 1/8th to 1/4 of an inch to your measurement. Cut the piece to length and check it to where you will be installing that piece. Remember, all these techniques start out this way.
Now comes the fun part. Here are three ways to sneak up on your measurement using your miter saw:
Playing cards - if the piece you are cutting is a short piece then you can use a stop block on the fence of your miter saw. You can sneak up to the right size by placing playing cards between the stop block and the piece that you're cutting - one at a time - until your piece fits precisely. Each playing card is approximately 10/1000ths of an inch thick. Always have a deck on hand for this and other similar uses. Use the Saw Blade - every saw blade starts out as a blank circular piece of steel before the teeth are either added or set. The teeth are also referred to as the kerf of the blade. The kerf is wider than the saw blade blank. For moulding I use a blade that has either 60 or 80 teeth per blade and has a thin kerf for more accuracy. Starting with the miter saw turned off I lower the blade until the teeth are below the deck of the saw. I then push my piece against the blank part of the blade and hold it firmly. With the miter saw still turned off I lift the blade above my work. I then turn the saw on and cut my piece. I've just cut the piece 1/2 the difference between the thickness of the kerf and the thickness of the blank part of the blade. This is a very controlled way to cut your piece. Another way to use the Saw Blade - although I have used this technique in the past I don't use it anymore. You may find that you like this technique and it may become your favorite but I find it is not as accurate as the other two. With your saw turned off lower the blade until the teeth are just above the deck of your saw. Push your piece against 1 or more teeth until it feels like you've bent the saw blade slightly. You don't have to push hard. Hold your piece firmly and raise the saw blade. Turn on your miter saw and make the cut.
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Whether you're cutting hardwood, softwood, plywood, or chipboard, the DeWalt DW3128P5 12-inch miter saw blade set helps you make quick, smooth, and accurate cuts. Featuring two thin kerf, carbide blades, one with 80 teeth and one with 32 teeth, this set gives you a pair of great options. Both blades feature a wedge shoulder design that puts an increased amount of steel behind each blade tip to prevent breakage and ensure precision, along with a computer-balanced plate that acts to reduce vibration for a better feel and finish. These blades are built for use with miter saws and slide miter saws.
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Razor saws are a type of back saw, which includes finely-pitched crosscut teeth. These hand saws contain disposable/replaceable blades - as it is very difficult to sharpen their teeth due to their small size.
Razor saws come in a variety of teeth-per-inch (TPI), with more teeth indicating a finer saw blade. The average teeth per inch of a razor saw are 15 TPI. The finer blades can go up to as many as 60 TPI. The blades are primarily used for cutting plastic, wood and soft metal to a depth which depends on the depth of the blade. With a double faced metal edge, the top of the blade will only fit in particular slot sizes of miter boxes. These hand saws have a rigid back or holder which allows the blade to be able to cut straight lines that are useful for miter cuts in wider pieces of metal or wood.
There are various benefits associated with the usage of razor saws. First and foremost, the benefit of using these hand saws is that the presence of the thin blades allows them to cut soft metal, plastic or wood with a very small kerf, maintaining a neat and clean edge on both sides of the cut. Used with more teeth per inch, makes these saws a perfect alternative for fine inlay work on instruments or inlaid dollhouse furniture, railroad cars, track and plastic airplane kits. They also serve the purpose of cutting rod and thin tubing, mitering, slitting, and sawing of very delicate parts. Most of these hand saws cut only on the pull stroke. However, you can also find a huge assortment of razor saws with replaceable/removable blades which can also be used for push or pull strokes.
Without any doubt, these hand saws have become a perfect solution for hobbyists, notably Model boat, Model aircraft and Model railroad enthusiasts.
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The first thing to remember when buying a saw blade is the arbor size. The arbor is the center hole in the blade and that must match the arbor size of the saw. On any saw remember to read your owners manually to see what blade size you will need for your saw. Saw blades come in a variety of sizes, types and materials.
Type of Materials used to make blades:
Steel Blades - Good for cutting softwoods, but will dull very quickly on hardwood. Inexpensive.
High-Speed Steel (HSS) Blades - Harder than the steel blades and will stay sharp longer. A little more pricey.
Carbide Tipped Blades - More expensive than the Steel and HSS, but they stay sharp longer than both. Good for hardwood cuts.
Abrasive Blades - Abrasive material used on these blades for cutting masonry and metals.
Diamond Blades - The tips of the blades have real diamonds and will cut through glass, concrete and ceramic tile.
The saw blade does the cutting. Spend a couple dollars more and invest in a blade that will stay sharp longer and give you a better cut.
Types of Blades
Gullet is the space between the teeth of the blade
Ripping - A ripping blade has few teeth and a large gullet for good wood removal. Used for cutting with the grain of the wood and will produce a ruff cut.
Crosscutting - Has many teeth, usually more than 48 and a very small gullet. This is used to cut across the wood grain and will produce a smooth finish.
Combination - Usually has a series of four to five teeth similar to the crosscut and is divided by a very large gullet Used for cutting with the grain, against the grain and miter cuts.
Plywood - Usually has a 100 or more teeth and as the name implies is used for cutting plywood.
Hollow Ground - This blade is ground thinner into the body than the teeth to prevent binding. Used for making smooth cuts across the wood grain.
Dado - This is manufactured as stacked, one piece or two piece adjustable units. Used for cutting grooves and dados in dimensional lumber and sheets.
Thin Kerf - Used for easy cutting and will not waste as much material. This is used for cutting dimensional lumber.
Abrasive - Used for cutting tile, masonry or even steel.
Diamond - Very sturdy and strong blade used for cutting tile, concrete, glass and ceramic materials.
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If you do much reading then you are probably familiar with the book by David Shwartz entitled 'The Magic of Thinking Big'. Outside of the bible it is one of my favorite books and I think one of the better books dealing with the power of a positive outlook on life. Now having said that, there is no 'magic' in life, but there are facts that we all deal with and each one of us looks at the same facts but not everyone interprets them or uses them in the same manner. It's the old 'glass is half full vs. the glass is half empty' scenario - same glass of water - different interpretation of facts.
I assume you're reading this because you're somehow tied to the lumber business whether you saw lumber, service equipment, or you're still thinking about getting into the market. Either way, I want to encourage you today to take your goals, visions, or your current operation to the next level of excellence.
We are in a time when everyone is talking 'economy'. I don't have to tell you it hasn't been as good as we would all like but that only means it will get better. Even today March 25th, 2010 there are strong signs of a thriving market in the wood industry. That means lumber is in demand, people are sawing, blades are getting ordered, and blades will need to be sharpened. So right now is an ideal opportunity to really go after the wood market and right now it is building momentum. Those people who are prepared for it are going to reap the harvest. So what does this mean to you? - Think Big.
If you have been talking about getting that sawmill, edger, resaw, sharpener, or setter then now is the time. These are pieces of equipment that will make you money. It's not like buying a car, boat or 4-wheeler which typically doesn't pay back. A sawmill will produce rough cut usable lumber that people want. Adding a board edger will increase lumber production by more than 30% (that means 30% in profits as well) by not having to edge boards on your sawmill. Pallet boards are in full demand and having a Resaw that can produce 10,000+ bd.ft. a day like our CR6E and CR8E Pallet Resaw can mean big profit. Sharpening and setting blades as a service to sawmillers in your area can be a full time job as well. Any of this equipment can help you reach your goals.
To do any of these things I've mentioned takes some vision and some positive thinking. If there was ever a time to make something happen, it is right now. Banks are beginning to loan money again, springtime is upon us, and the nation as a whole is ready to get out of the recession.
Some people may feel that these decisions can sometimes be a little overwhelming with so many companies selling similar equipment. Do your research, think big, and invest in something that will help you run a smoother operation and make you money.
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Using advanced technology, Freud developed a thin kerf line of saw blades that features laser-cut, anti-vibration slots that practically eliminate vibrations that resonate in standard blades. This blade provides flawless, chip-free edges in veneered plywoods, fine moldings, melamine, laminates, and crosscuts in solid woods. The combination of Hi-ATB tooth design and anti-vibration slots make this thin kerf blade the ultimate finish blade. The result is a cut so smooth it eliminates the need for a stabilizer or a scoring blade! 5/8" arbor
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